Showing posts with label plastic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plastic. Show all posts

Saturday, November 30, 2019

Empire of the Robot Monsters part 1



I have a great love for clunky old monster movies, and you don't get much clunkier than the infamous "Robot Monster" from 1953. I don't know why, but the movie has some weird hypnotic effect on me, and I've wondered about what the actual background for the helmeted gorilla-alien was. Thus the development of my prequel "Empire of the Robot Monsters."


You don't build an empire with just one robot monster, so I decided to build at least three of them; two regular Ro-Men, and the Controller or Ro-Man leader (to the far right in the above photo.)


Starting off with the iconic helmet, I used medium grade Monster Clay to create my representation. I really didn't have to bother with making the "prop" too smooth or symmetrical, since the helmets used in the actual movie look like they were slapped together over a weekend using papier mache. But I decided to make my version as slick-looking as possible.



For example, to make the opening of the helmet symmetrical I used the top of a plastic thread spool to make the indentation in the clay, which would allow me to carve out the opening using small loop tools.



The finished helmet sculpture would serve as the base for both the regular Ro-Men and their leader.


A clay wall was built up around the sculpture, and DragonSkin Pro silicone poured in to create a flexible mold.


When the silicone had set I could remove the clay and prepare for casting the helmets in plastic. "Silver Bullet" Cast Magic powder was brushed into the mold. The powder will line the mold and attach itself to the plastic, making the metal color on the helmets impossible to rub off.


SmoothCast 365 tinted black was poured into the mold and slushed around the interior using the roto-casting technique to create hollow plastic castings of the helmet.


Here's how the helmets look when they first come out of the mold. There's some cleaning up to be taken care of, filing off imperfections caused by tiny air bubbles. There are also some small indentations caused by more air in the mold, which was fixed by applying a Warhammer figure paint of the appropriate color.


I'm not really sure what's covering the opening of the helmet in the real movie. I used circles cut from a transparent plastic lid and covered with bits of nylon pantyhose held in place with super glue.


The antenna is made from thick needles and plastic tubes, with yarn dipped in tinted latex used for the cable connecting them. The little mouthpiece, or whatever it's supposed to be, was made by pressing a small blob of thermoplastic into a quickly made dental silicone mold applied over a small clay sculpture.



The armature for the Ro-Men is simplicity itself, with bundles of aluminum wires held together with yarn and thermoplastic. The helmet is attached to a clump of aluminum wires which slides into a hollow wooden dowel. I chose this arrangement so I could attach the head lastly, after the puppet body was finished.


Since the body would be covered with fake fur I only added rudimentary padding using wrappings of thin polyurethane foam. I just needed the general shape of the body.


The feet and the chest area were sculpted in Monster Clay and cast in latex from dental plaster molds.




The fur covering was made the simplest way possible, namely as two outlines of the body cut from slightly elastic fake fur and joined together over the padded body using flexible but strong contact cement.


The feet and the chest piece were attached to the padded armature, and parts of the fur were folded over the latex pieces and glued down using liquid latex.




So here are the finished Ro-Men. They're fairly small puppets, standing around seven inches tall. They were, however, very easy to animate at that size, with soft bodies and strong armatures.


At the very beginning of the film, you are introduced to the unpleasant wildlife of the Ro-Man homeworld. This is represented by two puppets having a sort of argument in the barren wilderness.



I decided to shamelessly steal the basic look of these monsters from sci-fi pulp era productions. The first one was inspired by the creatures depicted (though not shown in the actual feature) on the poster for the movie "Journey To the Seventh Planet." The second monster is based on the critter shown on the cover of an old Astounding Stories.


The Astounding Stories inspired beastie had its head sculpted in Monster Clay.


The sections of the legs were also sculpted in clay and cast in latex from a dental plaster mold. I could've built up the leg sections directly onto the armature, Marcel Delgado-style, but doing it this way was quicker and the result was pleasingly symmetrical.


Another basic armature for this puppet. The eyestalks were aluminum wires wrapped with yarn and coated with tinted latex.


Various bits of soft polyurethane composed the muscles of the body, padding out the shape of the puppet.


I cast wrinkly latex skin bits from old plaster skin texture molds, that I always keep on stand-by.




The base colors were tinted latex which was dry brushed on. Augments were made with acrylic airbrush colors. The eyes were simply Photoshop print-outs glued to the back of acrylic spheres using transparent scrapbooking glue. The spheres were also bought from a scrapbooking shop. The nails and teeth are cotton dipped in latex.




The second puppet had a few more body parts sculpted in clay, since it has a somewhat insect- or crab-like appearance.


The claws and mandibles were cast as latex skins, reinforced with a cotton and latex mix, and then filled up with Polymorph thermoplastic, into which aluminum wires were stuck.


Again, a very simple aluminum wire / thermoplastic armature. It's sturdy and light, and perfect for the short sequence in which the monsters appear.


The ridged brow on the head was cut from paper and covered with cotton and latex. The jaw was built up with latex skins over an aluminum wire covered with a yarn wrapping.


The body of this puppet was kept quite simple and smooth, allowing more expression from the sculpted body parts. Overlapping bits of thin polyurethane created the basic body shape.


Again, older skin texture molds were used for the casting of the latex skin covering (I have a whole bunch of skin molds by now). The claws on the feet are also cast in latex from a plaster mold.




Like his colleague, this puppet is dry brushed with tinted latex, touched up with acrylic airbrush paints, and provided with acrylic lens eyes. A piece of fake fur with airbrush touch-ups is glued to the puppet's back with contact cement.

In the next part of my Robot monster saga, I'll go into how the backgrounds were made, and some other stuff about the look of the film.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Little Plastic Monsters

For a while now I've been illustrating the kid-friendly role-playing game "Äventyret" ("Adventure") by my fellow Swede Daniel Lehto, and his daughter Julia. It hasn't been making a huge splash in the Swedish gaming community yet, but since it's the only one of its kind it has been receiving very nice reviews and comments. I was actually nominated for best game artist last year.
I believe Julia is 10 now, and since her own fertile imagination is just as powerful as the influences she's getting from other games, the monsters she comes up with for the world of "Äventyret" are rather eccentric.


When I was a kid in the late 1970's, you could actually buy primitive-looking but very charming plastic miniatures of the crazy monsters of Gary Gygax and Dave Arneson's ground-breaking "Dungeons & Dragons " game. I have a few of those.


I suggested that we (or rather, I) do a few "Äventyret" monster figurines, and now we're off and running. It's nothing we'll make any money off, but they're probably good for marketing the game. They'll surely be an eye-catcher at conventions and such gatherings.

I started of with the "hopster"; a bipedal monster of a rather innocent and humorous disposition. This is not a stop-mo puppet project, but I thought it could be interesting to share anyways. Who knows, I might eventually do some "Äventyret" stop-mo monsters, as they are (to me at least) screaming out to be animated.


I've started to use the Monster Makers "Monster Clay", which has a more waxy consistency than the Chavant, and I must say I'm in love. I find that I can work in smaller details faster than in the Chavant. As another example, here's a Roman centurion Medusa chest plate I did for a friend.


..And here's a work in progress for a stop-mo puppet. So, as you can see, the details are crisp, and the hard consistency of the Monster Clay will permit pretty rough handling of the sculpture without denting or smudging, which can happen during the moulding process.


Anyways, to continue with the hopster, I used Chavant to create the containment wall around the sculpture.


Dragonskin FX silicone was mixed and poured into this and left to set.


Most of the little sculpture came out intact from the finished silicone mould. This makes no matter for the project itself, but it shows the softness of the silicone. It's good to know if you're making a mould over a fragile object, for example. To get the sculpture out, I had to cut a slit in the space between the monster's legs. Other than that, the mould is a simple one-peice affair.


For the actual casting of the figure I'm using SmoothCast 65D from SmoothOn. It's semi-rigid, which allows a fair amount of impact resistance, meaning that if you drop the damn thing it won't shatter. SmoothCast 65D sets bright white in colour. I mixed in some So Strong flesh-coloured tint, which created a good base for the figurine. I don't have many So Strong tints, as they are a bit costly, but they do help when casting stuff, as you have a base colour which will always be there, even if some of the painted-on mediums will eventually rub off.


Here's the hopster cast, and ready for its painting and touch-ups. However I cast, I always end up with air bubbles. This will not me remedied until I get a vacuum chamber, which is a costly thing. Until then I simply use epoxy paste to fix larger castings, and I actually use (and recommend) a scrap booking liquid plastic, which is dispensed in droplets from a handy little bottle and dries a flexible transparent plastic. This is good for castings with smaller bubble holes, like the hopster.


The hopster now has a light coat of plastic hobby paint, and some airbrush acrylics applied with a small paintbrush for the eye. I enjoy making these things as much as my stop-mo puppets, and I'll try to find the time to make more of them in the near future.